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DoGa Modeling (Instructional)

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DoGa Modeling (Instructional)

Postby Sunset » Wed Sep 14, 2016 10:06 pm

How to Design and Build in DoGA, V.06


Ever had the desire to make your own space ships - or even other vehicles or vessels - but were afraid to try? Well, fear no longer!

This thread is here to both show you how using DoGa L1 - L3 and answer any questions you might have. It is a work in progress though, so feel free to point out areas that you think could use improvement, more explanation, or more illustration. Note that this guide should work for both L1 and L3; L1 is free, but is limited to the included textures and has some grayed-out options. For more on DoGa see the First Question.

ImageImageImageImage





First Question: What is DoGa?

DoGa is a freeware/shareware 3D Modeling program for Windows* that can be thought of as a virtual LEGO set. It allows the user to build models using a number of pre-made parts that can then be combined in essentially infinite different ways. Those parts can be stretched, shrunk, grown, duplicated, and mirrored. They can also be layered over and through one another. Different Attributes can then be applied to those parts to give them different textures or allow for different visual effects, such as glows or transparencies. The free version - L1 - covers most of these features while L2 and L3 have more advanced options with L3 being capable of rendering fully animated scenes using multi-jointed models. While it is not as advanced as Maya or 3DSMax or the other top-end 3D modeling packages, it is simple to use, very small (30mb) and can produce designs of a quality that one might find in-game inside many current video games with enough skill and patience. As with most things in life, you get out of DoGa what you put into it so this guide will hopefully assist in getting more out of it. As near as I can tell, DoGa-L3 is now Free; There's no reason to use L1 if you can get L3.

Where can you get it? Official Download Page or Reploid Production's Complete Install + Custom Parts or My Own Install and Custom Parts or you could grab all three for completeness-sake.

Note that if you select the High Resolution Background installation, you'll also need to go to the L1 download link and grab DOGAL_701_BG_SETUP.EXE (or DLBG_210.EXE) on the DOGA-L1 download page.

*I've talked to people who've been able to get it to work under WINE (Linux) and the Mac-equivalent Windows Emulator. As DoGA works fine under Windows 95+ it seems reasonable that an up-to-date Windows emulator should be able to run it. A useful note is that the .exe file is just an extractor - once you have the files extracted you can move them to another system/drive/whatever without going through the setup.




Second Question: The (Very) Basics

Once you open DoGa, you'll be presented with four different windows similar to those shown in the screenshots below. These are different views of the model in progress; Three Grid Views with an X, Y, or Z-axis view presented as a point-and-line rendering and a fourth that shows a real-time low-resolution rendering of the model. The scroll bars will allow you to move each of the three Grid Views around as well as manipulate parts and the fourth will allow you to view the entire or parts of the model from different angles using the controls on the right. Additionally, you can scroll and zoom inside the Grid Views by Right-clicking and holding and by using the mouse wheel, respectively. Select parts by Left-clicking the red box at the center of the part, and marque select by left-clicking and dragging. When you have a part selected, you can manipulate it using the Green or Blue Boxes shown in the Grid View; Green rotates the part, Blue stretches the part, and Red moves the part. Additionally, holding Alt will allow the part to rotate or stretch freely and ignore the sizing restrictions (Settings > Various Fitting Units...) or grid restrictions. Holding Ctrl while dragging the Blue box will force the part to stretch uniformly across all three axis. Shift+Left Click will let you multi-select specific parts; You'll need to click on or near the Red Box. Shift+Left Click also works in the Rendering Window and is, for overlapping or small parts, often the easier way to select multiple parts.

You can also use the keyboard; this is often useful for careful positioning of parts once they are 'close enough' using the mouse. This is dependent on the angle of the camera in the 3D view (Upper Right Window) and thus for ease of use it is best to make sure you've got the camera oriented more or less along the specific axis you don't want to use, as well as have the part visible in the 2D window on the plain that you want to make those adjustments across. For example if you are looking at your modeled side-on - that is, with the Z axis and the Y axis forming a '+' on the screen - having the part centered in the Lower Left window will show where it is moving. Holding Ctrl and pressing an Arrow Key will move the part as in the previous, but it will move it exactly 1 increment while the previous will move it a 'Grid Fitting Unit', which can be any user-specified amount. Holding Alt and pressing an Arrow Key will instead scale the part along the part's original Z or Y Axis. Note that the part's original axis may not be the same as how it is currently facing so check your work!

To add a part and see these functions use the 'Part > Add Part...' Menu.

In the lower right corner you'll see a vertical bar labeled 'Part Attribute'; This is where you'll create and manipulate Attributes using the buttons at the bottom and the internal Attribute dialog box. Part Attributes and various ways to manipulate and use them could be worthy of its own lengthy tutorial but we'll cover the basics in Step 3. For now, just take a look around and familiarize yourself with the interface.

Parts and Custom Parts: The downloaded version comes with a lot of parts, enough to make any number of different designs, but they are typically low-polygon and often have pre-set features such as blue windows or yellow glowing sections. Just as with LEGO you can still make a huge number of good looking models using only these parts; in fact for the demonstration I'll be only using parts from the Basis 1-4 sub-sections. However there are a huge number of custom parts out there for the advanced user. I have collected many of these into a .zip file as well as the parts that I have made myself over the years and this file is available above.





    Making Your Own, Steps 1-10...

    Step 1: The Rough Sketch
    First, sketch your design out on paper. Paper and pencil is a lot faster and can be erased and modified far more readily than DoGa can and a quick sketch can save you hours of re-working the design later. I prefer graph paper since that gives me a guide that I can then translate onto DoGa's grid spacing. I also suggest at least two different views of the potential design. This helps establish a feeling for the depth and weight of the model; Thin or thick, spindly or hefty. For the example I'll be working on a warship for an alien species that appears in some of my current story lines. Their ships tend towards the 'Clunky' end of the Clunk-Sleek spectrum and so I went with a design that is something of a mix of the Corellian Corvette and the Nebulon-B Frigate. With only the standard parts DoGa lends itself better to a Clunky design aesthetic but there are plenty of custom parts that can push towards the Sleek.

    As you sketch, you should start to consider the various components of the design in question. You don't have to include all of them, but I have occasionally found for a complex model that it helps to write them down so that I don't forget to include them in the finished model. Weapons, sensors, communications gear, flags, unit insignia, and even specifics are all good to keep in mind. In this example the aliens rely on massive nuclear-warhead missiles as their primary weapon and so I included a huge box launcher for them hanging below the command module. This would reduce the dangers of a direct hit to the launcher destroying the whole craft; The same reason is used for somewhat isolating the command module from the engine module by means of the neck. You don't nessecarily need to get into the technical details of the how and why but as with all things establishing the story of the design can help it come to life especially when used in the story-based medium of NationStates forum roleplay.
    Image





    Step 2: Bold Strokes
    Start with the most basic shape for your new design. In this example I'm also going to be using nothing but Basic parts (Found under the 'Part > Add Part... > Basis 1-4' menu) in order to illustrate the concept of building up from a basic design to one that is more complex. Start by roughly matching your paper design. At this point the parts don't matter as much as the layout and getting the general proportions right. Some will be replaced when the detailed construction begins, others won't, but shape matters more at this point. In this instance I'm purposefully limiting the Part selection but don't be afraid to just make something fit either - or to try something new. Because you can stretch and rotate and fit Parts through other Parts you might put down a Part at this stage that could completely change or even just suggest the future aesthetic for the design.
    Image
    There are literally thousands of possible parts in DoGa with the possibility of making more for advanced users (See the Advanced Option: MetaSequoia Section). This can be a struggle for anyone to reasonably use but there is a solution that I make frequent use of: A Parts Palette. Once I have built a ship or a tank to my liking, I will then take the parts from that model and arrange them in rows and columns, deleting any duplicates, and making sure to label the Materials so I know what is what (Typically by Density percentage then the prominence of that Material such as Primary, Secondary, Tertiary) before then saving this as a new Model file. Then if I want to make a new Kion Warship I can simply load that Model file and duplicate/move the parts around, adding new parts as I need them and then adding those parts back into the Palette Model file if I find I'm using them often. This can save a lot of time and have the secondary benefit of helping to keep a group of designs to the same look and feel, as if the same group of designers were working on them. This is also extremely helpful if you're using a lot of custom Parts on a routine basis since the palette file is a lot faster than poking through the file tree. Here's a screen shot of the Part Palette Model file I use for mecha and a lot of general vehicles: DoGa Parts Palette





    Step 3: Attributing Your Work
    Time to assemble the Part Attribute palette. Some might prefer to save this step until later, but I like to do it right about now in the process. Having the Part Attributes you're going to be using in place will help to guide you in choosing the right Parts and in holding the design to the right theme, especially as you get more detailed. Image Search is your friend; I looked for '____ ____ textures' where the blanks are from our favorite copyrighted film franchise and found plenty of free examples. Three or four is about right; Not every texture will match once you're using it in DoGa and you can always re-use them later. Save them as something memorable since the image interface in DoGa is half-bad. To load a custom texture, open the Part Attributes panel via 'Edit' on the lower right corner, then go to the 'Texture' tab, then the -> next to a blank box or one you don't mind replacing. Type in the name - you did make it memorable, right? - and now you can use it as a texture. To do this, click one of the boxes at the top (Color1 - Transparency) and then select the texture you've added. Each top box does something a little different; See Part Attributes - Advanced Options.

    Now you will want to make several different materials with the same texture but at different densities. This is because DoGa doesn't allow texture manipulation on a per-part or per-polygon basis but rather as a single Part Attribute with all densities - resolutions - of the texture applied to the selected parts. To adjust the density, select the box on the right labeled 'Density' and slide this up or down or just type a number instead. I generally make materials for 100% to 10% - 80, 60, 40, and 10. This varies per texture and sometimes I don't use all of them but they are good to have around. Then repeat with the second texture you've selected, and the third, and so on. Note that DoGa does not automatically center the texture - and you might not want to anyway - but if you do, set the Horizontal and Vertical to -(100 - Density) / 2. If you've set the Density to 60 you'll then use -20 in both fields to center it.
    Image
    There's a lot of options when it comes to Part Attributes and I'd advise you to play around with them, but here's an overview of what many of them do and how they do it.

    Texture Tab > Bump Map: The Bump Map box allows you to set an image to be used by the renderer to make some small details stand up or down from the rest of the texture. This is based on a gray-scale conversion of the image that the engine creates on the fly; The darker the image is, the 'deeper' the area will appear and vis versa. I highly suggest setting the 'Emphasis' to somewhere between 5-10% otherwise the rendered image will look very ragged unless the gray-scale difference is very light. However a high-Emphasis Bump Map is a good way to make things like water and earth where the image you use will be very detailed and thus differences between apparent heights will be minimal. For an example see this image of a few tanks on a rocky plain.

    Texture Tab > Transparency: This again works using a gray-scale conversion created by the engine. The lighter the area, the more transparent it will be. This can be a good way to add flags, logos, numbers, and script to your model. We'll get to that in Step 8 and 9.

    Material Tab: There's a lot of different options here but what they generally affect is how much light is 'reflected' by the Part Attribute, how transparent it is on the whole, and how much it glows. For nearly all ships and military vehicles I go with the default 'Rough' setting as this looks like a generic matte paint such as you'd normally find on these. Down at the bottom is the important bits; Drop, Receive, and Self Shadow. Unless you have a specific reason otherwise I would set all of these to On, otherwise your model won't have much depth to it. There is some default shadowing done by the Rendering Engine but these give it more pop.





    Step 4: Layering
    I like to think of this next step as working from Large to Medium to Small. Once the initial set of shapes is laid out, I then begin to fill in the gaps and add large features as well as tweaking the overall layout here and there. I'm going to start with the 'neck' between the 'command' and 'engine' sections. A rectangular box along each side of the neck just down from the mid-point turns a sharp hexagon into a lumpy octagon and then a few truncated pyramids over this gives the area some texture. My preference is to focus on one area of a particular design at a time, building it up through various layers until it feels done and then moving on to the next. This helps me to establish an overall look for the finished product and avoid the feeling that things are going too slowly. Also, once I'm done I can look back to that section for inspiration and even to duplicate parts from, such as the small turrets that will be found all over the ship.
    Image





    Step 5: The Small Stuff
    Building over the top of the pieces added in Step 4, I've added some gun emplacements as well as the guns and taken out one of the large boxes used to establish the layout and replaced it with several others to make a landing bay for small craft. I've added another texture here as well, a semi-transparent radiant that will be a force field over the bay. Note that until you render it it won't show as transparent. This is also the best step to add guns; Generally, a small gun like these should be 1/40th to 1/60th the size of the overall ship. Medium guns should be 1/20th to 1/30th, and the largest can be 1/10th and sometimes larger.
    Image





    Step 6: Reusing Parts
    That's right, more details. But here we get into the idea of re-using parts from one area on another. In this case I've made a sensor mast on the top of the ship and then, using the marque selection tool, duplicated it upside down and then rotated it. Duplicating parts can both save a lot of time (Alt Y, Z, and X) but also give the entire model a sense of connection. If I have an element I'm going to re-use often, one trick I fall back on is to duplicate the parts for that element and then move them off to one side. Then it becomes much easier to select just those parts and duplicate them. You can save a group of Parts as their own custom Part but this has the limitation that you cannot then change the Part Attributes for these Parts. If you do have a particular item - such as a gun turret, rifle, or otherwise complex object - that you plan on using across several models I would instead save those parts as their own regular model and then use 'File > Append' instead. Then you can easily make model-specific changes without resorting to a text editor.

      Step 6b: Cylindrical Cheating
      Suppose you want to make a ship or station that is cylindrical or has various parts aligned along a single axis but instead of a symmetrical cylinder - all the parts match those on the other side - you want one that is tri-laterally symmetrical? Or more? Well, there is a reasonably easy way to do that in DoGa but it will take a little work. First, lay out the parts you intend to mirror along one side of the 'core' object. Then, using the marquee select or 'SHIFT'-click or a combination of the two, select those parts. Here's where things can get tricky; Using 'CTRL', move those parts away from the model far enough that you have some room to work. This should be along one of the three major axis (X, Y, Z) because the next step will be to mirror those parts around the relevant axis so they are symmetrical.

      But Sunset, you say - I wanted trilateral symmetry!

      First, select both groups of parts. Then go up to 'Settings' and 'Rotating Fitting Unit'. There will be a slider there but this only goes up to 15 degrees. Instead, type '120' directly into the first box. Click 'Okay' and now when you try to rotate the parts they will only rotate a full 120 degrees from their starting point. Now, first you want to 'mirror' the parts at the starting position. Two groups of parts on top of each other. Then rotate the new group of parts once - 120 degrees. Then mirror them again. Now you'll have six groups of parts and you can delete the three you don't want. Unless you want six. You can use the same technique to make any symmetric; Just divide the number of radial sets you want (3, 7, 13) into 360 and put that number into the box.
    Image





    Step 7: Save Your Work
    Mostly done. Not much of a Step, is it? Perhaps now is the time to mention another crucial step you should follow regularly: Save Your Work. There's nothing worse than being a few hours into a model and having the program crash. And it does crash. Save early, save often. Since this segment is a little sparse, I'll throw in a bit of an advanced element here - ignore it freely. Speaking of saving and the save files in general, the .L3P file that DoGa creates is nothing more than a carefully formatted text file. Again it would take an entire tutorial to discuss ways to use and manipulate this, but importantly you should know that DoGa actually creates a backup of your save files when you save and that it is possible, if a file is somehow corrupted or something else happens, to restore your model from that save file. In the folder DOGACGA/Data there will be three files for some of your models; A .L3P, a .BMP, and a .$3P. Rename the faulty .L3P file to something else then rename the .$3P to .L3P and you might just get your file back. With that in mind as well, .L3P files are very small and sharing one - and thus your model - with someone else is very easy.
    Seriously - Save Your Work





    Step 8: Personality
    Flags, logos, and insignia can make your design feel like the work of living people rather than just a flat image pried off a blue print. In this case I've created a couple more Part Attributes using the Transparency options (Edit > Texture Tab > Transparency) to add both a menacing eye and a mask insignia in keeping with the Kion's warrior-centered culture. To place them on the model I used just a simple flat square (Basis 1) with one of the new Part Attributes set. With transparent images it is important to place the Part as close to but not touching or inside the Part they are 'painted' on as possible. Zoom in nice and close, adjust the angles, and check your work. Sometimes with transparent images you may want to adjust the emphasis up and down - this makes the image more or less transparent. In this case I also set the 'Color' of the Part Attribute to black so that anything other than the now-transparent white appears as black instead of a shade of gray. Whether you need to or want to do this depends on the image selected; If you need to do a test render to check your work select the Part in question and use the Red Diamond on the right to center on it. This will render much faster than doing the entire design.
    ImageImage





    Step 9: Before You Render
    There's a lot of options to play with, but the most important is the resolution; I suggest setting this to 900x600 or so. This is a widescreen format and will fit everything from most phones to desktops and importantly is also the maximum image size allowed inside a forum post. That isn't to say you can't go bigger or smaller but that's the target audience. The higher the resolution the longer it will take to render with a 60,000 polygon model at 4k with high resolution textures taking about an hour. Aside from Resolution there are some other options; Antialias will smooth out the image so it doesn't look as ragged (3x is fine for most purposes, 9x for the vanity shots) and BG Picture will let you use either a single color, one of a number of stock options, or a specified background image. If you chose to use your own background image un-check the 'Map to BG Sphere' box otherwise the image will be distorted - though maybe you want that; Faster-than-light effect?
    Image
    Want to really make your image stand out? While your render will, if the proper options are selected under the 'Part Attributes > Materials Tab', cast shadows across itself these will not drop onto the background image. For a space ship this generally isn't very important - they are too far away from anything to cast a shadow - but for ground vehicles the way around this is to build some terrain for the vehicle to sit on but that then has the problem of casting its own shadow, right? You can get around this by putting your creation up on top of something; I like hills, freeway overpasses, and tall buildings. You can also do water by finding a suitably wet texture via image search and then applying your new Part Attribute to a flat disk that you've stretched out until it is very, very large. Placed against one of the included mountain or valley backgrounds and it will look like your ship is now at the edge of an inlet or far out at sea.





    Step 10: The First Render
    Time to sit back and wait with a frosty beverage of your choice. No? There are more options you say? Let's keep this part simple. When you render your image, either through 'Display -> Rendering or the 'Display -> Rendering Options' sub-menu, the layout of the rendering will match that of the low-resolution render in the upper right-hand corner of the main interface. Sometimes adjusting this using the provided controls can be tricky, but you can also change the view from the three Axis Views. There will be a giant teal arrow visible in these windows and this indicates the camera direction along that particular axis. Click the red square at the tip and you can manipulate the camera very precisely before going for that perfect picture.
    Image




After DoGa: What's Next?

Once you have a grasp of what you can do with DoGa, there even more that you can do by combining your skills there with one or more programs. I've seen people use their DoGa model as a guide for lineart and from there to a full-color painting, as a background or part of a background for a larger composite, or as the starting point for a more complex model by importing it into another 3D program. With enough time and patience - and the right software - you can even prepare your model for 3D printing.

How About Some Examples?!

Sure, why not? There's a bit of everything here from pure DoGa to plenty of outside additions or even examples of post-DoGa work such as drawing or painting over a DoGa model.

Sunset's devArt Gallery
Scolopendra's devArt Gallery
Vocenae's devArt Gallery
Dargonese' devArt Gallery

Remember, these are devArt and thus might contain NSFW works. Make sure you have your account filters set appropriately and of course you shouldn't be seeing the naughty stuff if you aren't logged in.




And that's the end of V.07. Please, post your question, needs, wants, and I'll start filling in the missed details! Credit goes to Highfort, Vocenae, Scolopendra, Kyrusia, and of course Reploid Productions for various bits, bobs, suggestions, corrections, and notions!

~Sunset
Last edited by Sunset on Sun Feb 17, 2019 11:48 am, edited 38 times in total.
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The complexity...it's horrifically amazing.
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Postby Cerillium » Thu Sep 15, 2016 11:25 am

Brilliant, Sunset! I wasn't aware this was out there.
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Postby Maljaratas » Thu Sep 15, 2016 12:17 pm

I didn't happen to see any mention of the system requirements, specifically the OS, which might be useful, since not everyone uses Windows. (Unless I read the requirements page wrong.)
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Postby Highfort » Thu Sep 15, 2016 1:23 pm

Download link doesn't appear to be working due to SimTel having been taken down in 2013. I'm searching for an archive version that has the download available and will post here if I find one.

EDIT: Found a copy of the latest version (2008, from the looks of it), thanks to Google translating the Japanese developer's page:

https://translate.google.com/translate? ... rev=search

Scroll down until you see "PROGRAMS" on the right side, and select the DOGA-L series. Then select download for DOGA-L1 and select "Installer body DOGAL1_806_SETUP.EXE" for download. If it won't let you download, try right-clicking and selecting "open in new tab" and the download window should appear. If you want the extra backgrounds, also download "Additional background DOGAL_701_BG_SETUP.EXE (or DLBG_210.EXE)" before installing since the installer will ask for it.
Last edited by Highfort on Thu Sep 15, 2016 1:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Cerillium » Thu Sep 15, 2016 1:48 pm

Highfort wrote:Download link doesn't appear to be working due to SimTel having been taken down in 2013. I'm searching for an archive version that has the download available and will post here if I find one.

EDIT: Found a copy of the latest version (2008, from the looks of it), thanks to Google translating the Japanese developer's page:

https://translate.google.com/translate? ... rev=search

Scroll down until you see "PROGRAMS" on the right side, and select the DOGA-L series. Then select download for DOGA-L1 and select "Installer body DOGAL1_806_SETUP.EXE" for download. If it won't let you download, try right-clicking and selecting "open in new tab" and the download window should appear. If you want the extra backgrounds, also download "Additional background DOGAL_701_BG_SETUP.EXE (or DLBG_210.EXE)" before installing since the installer will ask for it.

IT god is holy. Thanks Agy.

I had some trouble with both links/downloads. Clarified with Sunset in #NSMentors that it's L3 we're looking for. It wants 13 minutes to download. Can't do that at the moment (currently uploading reports).
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Postby Sunset » Thu Sep 15, 2016 1:52 pm

Maljaratas wrote:I didn't happen to see any mention of the system requirements, specifically the OS, which might be useful, since not everyone uses Windows. (Unless I read the requirements page wrong.)


I've used it in everything from Windows '95 to 10. Didn't work so well under 7. I've talked to a couple people who've used it with WINE and with the Mac-equivalent Windows emulator. DoGa doesn't seem to use anything like DirectX or other Windows frameworks (probably why it renders so slowly) and you can copy the entire folder to a flash drive, plug it into another system, copy it over, and it will run exactly the same between the two. I've no particular knowledge of the emulators but I would assume someone who knows what they are would be able to figure out how to use them.
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Postby Highfort » Thu Sep 15, 2016 1:57 pm

Cerillium wrote:
Highfort wrote:Download link doesn't appear to be working due to SimTel having been taken down in 2013. I'm searching for an archive version that has the download available and will post here if I find one.

EDIT: Found a copy of the latest version (2008, from the looks of it), thanks to Google translating the Japanese developer's page:

https://translate.google.com/translate? ... rev=search

Scroll down until you see "PROGRAMS" on the right side, and select the DOGA-L series. Then select download for DOGA-L1 and select "Installer body DOGAL1_806_SETUP.EXE" for download. If it won't let you download, try right-clicking and selecting "open in new tab" and the download window should appear. If you want the extra backgrounds, also download "Additional background DOGAL_701_BG_SETUP.EXE (or DLBG_210.EXE)" before installing since the installer will ask for it.

IT god is holy. Thanks Agy.

I had some trouble with both links/downloads. Clarified with Sunset in #NSMentors that it's L3 we're looking for. It wants 13 minutes to download. Can't do that at the moment (currently uploading reports).


Just as a heads up, the high-resolution background images option offered in DOGA-L3 requires the "Additional background DOGAL_701_BG_SETUP.EXE (or DLBG_210.EXE)" on the DOGA-L1 download page.
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Postby Imperial and Federal Union of States » Sat Sep 17, 2016 11:39 am

Anddd now I want to re-make my fleet in DoGA.

God damnit.

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Founded: Aug 10, 2015
Ex-Nation

Postby Narintia » Sat Sep 17, 2016 11:43 am

Imperial and Federal Union of States wrote:Anddd now I want to re-make my fleet in DoGA.

God damnit.

Don't worry, for a small loan of a million dollars, I'll do it for free!
Honest.
You trust me, right?
Right?!
Tiocfaidh ár lá
Pechory is and always will be Estonia.

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Corindia
Minister
 
Posts: 2247
Founded: May 29, 2016
Civil Rights Lovefest

Postby Corindia » Sat Sep 17, 2016 12:54 pm

I could use this

Of the People, For the People

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Sunset
N&I RP Mentor
 
Posts: 3397
Founded: Antiquity
Inoffensive Centrist Democracy

Postby Sunset » Tue Sep 20, 2016 2:37 pm

Some updates and clarifications as well as the usual and unending formatting changes. Take a look and if you have anything you want included please ask!

Edit: As well, if you've made something using this guide I'd love to see it, no matter what state it's in. 900x900, and please use the spoiler tag!
Last edited by Sunset on Tue Sep 20, 2016 2:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Quick Overview: Future-Tech, Extra-Solar, Multi-Species, Republic, Renewable Capitalist
Have a Mentor Question or need some Advice? Telegram Me, ask on IRC, or read the Guide!


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Sunset
N&I RP Mentor
 
Posts: 3397
Founded: Antiquity
Inoffensive Centrist Democracy

Postby Sunset » Sun Oct 16, 2016 9:19 pm

Latest Project & Some Tips and Techniques...

----

A proto-BattleMech I made for FRFS: A BEAR in the woods.

The BEAR (Battle Exosuit Assault Rig) is a bipedal design that fills some of the holes I feel are left by the more traditional designs while sticking to his particular vision. The turrets are up high so as to allow the regular use of cover, the arms are heavy manipulators to take advantage of and enhance bipedal mobility, and the unit can drop down onto heavy-duty wheels concealed in armored drums on the forelegs for higher-speed travel over regular terrain. This particular unit is armed for an anti-light armor/anti-air role with twin high-cycle railguns and nine launch cells behind the cockpit.

Techniques:

Parts Palette: A pre-made model file filled with the various parts I use for mecha on a regular basis. This allows faster work as there is less hunting through the regular menus for a particular part.

Fake Shadow: To 'cast' a shadow on the background image, make a part attribute that has the 'Receive Shadow from other obj' box checked under the Edit Part Attribute > Material tab and then set a fairly uniform image under Texture > Transparency. Set this to 125-130% emphasis. Then add a 'Basics 4' square or circle with this attribute set under the model and stretch it out to fill the size of the potential shadow. This may take a couple renders to adjust, but you'll end up with a pretty good looking - but fake - shadow.
Quick Overview: Future-Tech, Extra-Solar, Multi-Species, Republic, Renewable Capitalist
Have a Mentor Question or need some Advice? Telegram Me, ask on IRC, or read the Guide!

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Palmyrion
Ambassador
 
Posts: 1698
Founded: Mar 04, 2015
Inoffensive Centrist Democracy

Postby Palmyrion » Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:24 pm

I badly need this but it won't load here in the Philippines :(
THE ROYAL PALMYRIAN COMMONWEALTH | "For God, People, Nature, and the Country"
History | Government and Politics | Military (Army | Navy | Aerospace Forces) | Economy | Culture

PALMYRION REPRESENTS MY REAL-LIFE SOCIO-GEOPOLITICAL BELIEFS. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
[Commonwealth News Service] PCAL Northern Conference to Start AY 2019-2020 | Politicians Ramp Up Campaigning for 2020 Elections | Lakán Alexander II Marries Long-Time Commoner Girlfriend of 15 Years | PCAL To Include E-Sports in AY 2019-2020 Competitions


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