you've got the following:
- 1.
- 4x heavy duty wheels w/ run-flat tires
- 2.
- 2.1 2x headlight wire mesh screen
- 2.2 2x taillight wire mesh screen
- 2.3 1x lightbar
- 2.4 2x side window wire mesh screen
- 2.5 1x snorkel
- 3.
- 3.1 6x vertical rollcage tube
- 3.2 1x weapon ringmount
- 3.3 2x transversal rollcage tube
- 3.4 6x horizontal rollcage tube
- 3.5 2x diagonal rollcage tube
- 4.
- 4.1 bullbar
- 4.2 roof weapon pintle mount
- 4.3 roof side-open hatch
- 5.
- 5.1 2x side front ⅓ 'rd ballistic blanket
- 5.2 2x side middle ⅓ 'rd ballistic blanket
- 5.3 2x side back ⅓ 'rd ballistic blanket
- 5.4 1x rear ballistic blanket
and here it is mounted:
going from front to back, you have the following mods:
bullbar - this would be preferably bolted/welded to the chassis itself
headlight mesh screen
snorkel
window mesh screen
light bar
hatch (side-opening)
pintle mount
rollcage
ballistic blankets
ringmount (rollcage-integrated)
folding bench seats (not visible, mounted along the sides of the bed)
taillight mesh screen
The point behind the bullbar is obviously to be able to smash through light barricades. The ballistic blankets would be secured to the rollcage through straps and/or loops. they would feature zippers to allow ingress/egress and operating the pintle- and ringmounted machineguns. The ringmounted machinegun would ideally be a HMG on a high elevation mount, which would allow for comfortable true 360 transverse and engaging aerial or high targets in urban/mountainous environments. the pintle mount would ideally be telescopic or collapsible/foldable (to allow for a completely free field of fire for the HMG if desired) and mount a GPMG/MMG. mounting the hatch would involve cutting out a portion of the roof and welding/bolting it on (possibly topped off with some sealant like silicon to keep rain out or w/e). it would be used for observation purposes or to fire small arms.
i'm currently looking at ways to lightly bulletproof a car that is on a budget and (semi-)diy . one thing i had in mind was to line the floor of the vehicle with ballistic blankets and also drape them over the doors (on the inside). the only significantly bulky/costly/complicated bulletproofing left to be done would be to do something with the windows but hey something is better than nothing. even frag/spall-only protection would be a huge improvement over stock.
i actually once calculated the payload required to armor an F-150 with mild steel plates completely (w/o windows) and it was well under the listed maximum payload iirc. however, i only took into account the weight of the plates themselves, and the problem with this is that the panels themselves are not designed to carry that kind of weight and would probably require sub-structures, also welding could prove problematic if you go that route
for arming rebels you want to go as simple as possible so i'd reckon bolts should do the job. then if you want to be really anal about it you could e.g. supply each "hatch kit" with a small, single-use silicon bottle and applicator for waterproofing the thing. if you want to be really really anal you could also have sound and thermal deadening integrated into the hatch to maintain the stock feel but that's a lot of anal
i'm thinking how much of this requires actually supplying them with kits and what could be taught to them e.g. supply them with technical sheets and have them weld their own rollcages with their own metal or w/e (this would require them to be semi-competent however)
Obviously this kit is for a Ford F-150 regular cab with a regular bed, you could have different kits for different trucks and/or just a kit that will fit most trucks used as technicals (read: hilux/toyo landcruiser). Even with different kits you'll still have intercompatibility with most parts.
note: the roof hatch has a double door so it can open on the driver side only, passenger side only or both.
note2: also, what do you think would be best to use to close and open the ballistic blankets - zippers or velcro? i'm tending towards zipper as it can be easily closed and open and it could have a pull tab on both sides of the zipper slide thus allowing for it to be closed or open from both the inside and outside. if you have a ballistic blanket on the top of the rollcage as well or even just a tarp you could essentially turn the bed area into a waterproof compartment and i think zippers are better at holding back water than velcro fastening.
note 3: the truck can additionally be fitted with modular armor to protect the cab, engine, fuel tank and/or other vital areas. one example of simple diy armoring would be to sandbag the bottom and/or sides of the bed.