The General Car Thread.

[I didnt vote for Trump]

Also especially with fleet vehicles any cost savings is offset by the extra training and the need to have a free hand to operate communications equipment.

Anybody who can't drive a manual vehicle while using a UHF radio can get their uncoordinated ass off my construction site.

[Auzkhia]

So I just tried playing around with shifting my automatic manually, and apparently I was wrong about my 4T40: it's really a 3-speed + overdrive, because it shifts through the first three gears automatically in "3".

At least my pickup with the TH700R4 labels the shifter correctly as PRN[D]D21, although if I remember correctly the Hydramatic won't actually hold 2nd gear...

Isn't overdrive just the highest gear, at least nowadays?

My car has the 5G tronic automatic, which has five forward gears, 4th is 1:1, and wouldn't 5th be overdrive then? I'm a bit sure overdrive is just the highest gear, is it not?

[The Two Jerseys]

So I just tried playing around with shifting my automatic manually, and apparently I was wrong about my 4T40: it's really a 3-speed + overdrive, because it shifts through the first three gears automatically in "3".

At least my pickup with the TH700R4 labels the shifter correctly as PRN[D]D21, although if I remember correctly the Hydramatic won't actually hold 2nd gear...

Isn't overdrive just the highest gear, at least nowadays?

My car has the 5G tronic automatic, which has five forward gears, 4th is 1:1, and wouldn't 5th be overdrive then? I'm a bit sure overdrive is just the highest gear, is it not?

Technically "overdrive" is any gear that's taller than 1:1.

My point though is that if I put the shifter into "3" it functions as a 3-speed automatic instead of holding 3rd gear, so I wouldn't call it a "true" 4-speed transmission.

[I didnt vote for Trump]

Isn't overdrive just the highest gear, at least nowadays?

My car has the 5G tronic automatic, which has five forward gears, 4th is 1:1, and wouldn't 5th be overdrive then? I'm a bit sure overdrive is just the highest gear, is it not?

Technically "overdrive" is any gear that's taller than 1:1.

My point though is that if I put the shifter into "3" it functions as a 3-speed automatic instead of holding 3rd gear, so I wouldn't call it a "true" 4-speed transmission.

Why wouldn't you call it a four speed? I'm not sure that function precludes it from being considered a four speed automatic and an overdrive gear is still a gear, no?

[Arkinesia]

OK.

Then why buy manual?

Cost, really. Manual transmissions are almost universally found in base specification vehicle models these days. And cost is one of the main factors especially if you're buying fleet vehicles.

Manual transmissions are actually quite rare over here. They've been eliminated from most economy car lineups and are the reserve of sports cars anymore.

[Petrolheadia]

Also especially with fleet vehicles any cost savings is offset by the extra training and the need to have a free hand to operate communications equipment.

Anybody who can't drive a manual vehicle while using a UHF radio can get their uncoordinated ass off my construction site.

Well, I prefer workers having less distractions, and out of these two, the UHF radio is used for work...

[Patridam]

Nope, it's a PRND321 pattern.

Isn't it forbidden to switch between modes while the car is moving?

The Town car has a PRNOD21 pattern that holds. There's nothing about saying switching is forbidden (yes, I do read user manuals), just recommendations for what the "average user" can expect to use the gears for. It says 1 is most useful if you're trying to crawl in bad traction, keeping it in 2 is best for very slow traffic or hill starts, D is for low speed or hilly driving, and then O is for general driving, and that most drivers will want to use D and O most of the time. There's nothing disallowing using it like a manual, although it would be rather awkward.

[Novus America]

Cost, really. Manual transmissions are almost universally found in base specification vehicle models these days. And cost is one of the main factors especially if you're buying fleet vehicles.

Manual transmissions are actually quite rare over here. They've been eliminated from most economy car lineups and are the reserve of sports cars anymore.

In fact 97% of cars sold in the US are automatics. 73% of models sold here no longer offer an option to get a manual. Even heavy and fleet vehicles have been going automatic.

And electric cars do not have a transmission box at all. The manual transmission is dying, and in the US already almost dead.

[Petrolheadia]

Manual transmissions are actually quite rare over here. They've been eliminated from most economy car lineups and are the reserve of sports cars anymore.

In fact 97% of cars sold in the US are automatics. 73% of models sold here no longer offer an option to get a mannual. Even heavy and fleet vehicles have been going automatic.

And electric cars do not have a transmission box at all. The mannual transmission is dying, and in the US already almost dead.

Good riddance, apart from offroaders (e.g. Wrangler).

[Patridam]

Ladies and gentlemen, please observe Petrolheadia, a boy so obsessed with his hatred of me and proving me wrong that he has put aside his pro Japanese bias and is defending the least Japanese car imaginable, a 90s Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham.

Is there a chance you are jealous of

Nope. I respect the Fleetwood as a decent car, I just have issues with its styling/proportions and the difficulty in keeping it mechanically sound.

the bigger interior

Better legroom and trunk room in the TC, vs hip room in the Fleetwood. All the dimensions in these cars are huge, an eight of an inch here or there doesn't matter.

longer wheelbase

Oh wow that three inches, it hurts me so much. Fortunately I have better fuel economy and less weight to comfort me.

better part supply

Wat....

Hahahahahahahaha! You're, you're trying to say the parts for a platform and finicky drivetrain that died off in 1996 are more common than the interchangable parts on the most popular fleet cars of all time? Hahahahaha, Christ you will go to any length to disagree with me, won't you?

better towing capacity?

If we're in an alternate universe where I actually need to tow things? No, because I'd get a pickup or SUV for that, rather than search for years to find a Fleetwood Brougham with the rare towing package.

[Petrolheadia]

Ladies and gentlemen, please observe Petrolheadia, a boy so obsessed with his hatred of me and proving me wrong that he has put aside his pro Japanese bias and is defending the least Japanese car imaginable, a 90s Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham.

Is there a chance you are jealous of

Nope. I respect the Fleetwood as a decent car, I just have issues with its styling/proportions and the difficulty in keeping it mechanically sound.

the bigger interior

Better legroom and trunk room in the TC, vs hip room in the Fleetwood. All the dimensions in these cars are huge, an eight of an inch here or there doesn't matter.

longer wheelbase

Oh wow that three inches, it hurts me so much. Fortunately I have better fuel economy and less weight to comfort me.

better part supply

Wat....

Hahahahahahahaha! You're, you're trying to say the parts for a platform and finicky drivetrain that died off in 1996 are more common than the interchangable parts on the most popular fleet cars of all time? Hahahahaha, Christ you will go to any length to disagree with me, won't you?

better towing capacity?

If we're in an alternate universe where I actually need to tow things? No, because I'd get a pickup or SUV for that, rather than search for years to find a Fleetwood Brougham with the rare towing package.

First, the Brougham has the simplier LT1, not the more finicky and unreliable Modular V8.

Second, the interior of the Fleetwood is noticeably bigger. Something on the scale of 8 cu. ft.

Third, I meant drivetrain parts, which are interchangeable with the droves of GM trucks, fullsizes and performance cars.

Fourth, you don't have to be buying a tow car to need to tow once in a while.

[Auzkhia]

Isn't overdrive just the highest gear, at least nowadays?

My car has the 5G tronic automatic, which has five forward gears, 4th is 1:1, and wouldn't 5th be overdrive then? I'm a bit sure overdrive is just the highest gear, is it not?

Technically "overdrive" is any gear that's taller than 1:1.

My point though is that if I put the shifter into "3" it functions as a 3-speed automatic instead of holding 3rd gear, so I wouldn't call it a "true" 4-speed transmission.

Ok then, I thought I knew.

Technically "overdrive" is any gear that's taller than 1:1.

My point though is that if I put the shifter into "3" it functions as a 3-speed automatic instead of holding 3rd gear, so I wouldn't call it a "true" 4-speed transmission.

Why wouldn't you call it a four speed? I'm not sure that function precludes it from being considered a four speed automatic and an overdrive gear is still a gear, no?

It's a 4 speed transmission because it has four forward gears, even if it was developed from a 3 speed auto with an integrated overdrive. Because 3 speed plus overdrive sounds better than 4 speed, if your ideal Saturday afternoon is going to Roadside America.

Ladies and gentlemen, please observe Petrolheadia, a boy so obsessed with his hatred of me and proving me wrong that he has put aside his pro Japanese bias and is defending the least Japanese car imaginable, a 90s Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham.

Is there a chance you are jealous of

Nope. I respect the Fleetwood as a decent car, I just have issues with its styling/proportions and the difficulty in keeping it mechanically sound.

the bigger interior

Better legroom and trunk room in the TC, vs hip room in the Fleetwood. All the dimensions in these cars are huge, an eight of an inch here or there doesn't matter.

longer wheelbase

Oh wow that three inches, it hurts me so much. Fortunately I have better fuel economy and less weight to comfort me.

better part supply

Wat....

Hahahahahahahaha! You're, you're trying to say the parts for a platform and finicky drivetrain that died off in 1996 are more common than the interchangable parts on the most popular fleet cars of all time? Hahahahaha, Christ you will go to any length to disagree with me, won't you?

better towing capacity?

If we're in an alternate universe where I actually need to tow things? No, because I'd get a pickup or SUV for that, rather than search for years to find a Fleetwood Brougham with the rare towing package.

He went from JDM to GM?

Just another of episode of my favorite comedy team.

[Petrolheadia]

What are the most and least long-lasting carmakers where you live?

In my area, starting with the most long-lasting automaker:
- Volvo,
- Trabant,
- BMW,
- Audi,
- Jeep,
- Mercedes,
- VW,
- Chrysler,
- Toyota,
- Suzuki,
- Honda,
- Skoda,
- Nissan/Mazda,
- Opel,
- Peugeot,
- Ford,
- Seat,
- Citroen,
- FSO and subsidiaries,
- Fiat,
- Rover,
- Renault,
- Ssangyong,
- Daewoo,
- Lada.

What do you think? How does it look where you live?

[Patridam]

First, the Brougham has the simplier LT1, not the more finicky and unreliable Modular V8.

The 4.6 is one of the most reliable and long lasting engines in all of automotive history. It never was, never has been, and never will be "finicky" or "unreliable" as it carries Panther bodies to 400,000 miles or more. Meanwhile, though the LT1 is mechanically mediocre as far as reliability, the transmission and electrics always attached to it have been known to be abjectly terrible with common and costly failures.

Second, the interior of the Fleetwood is noticeably bigger. Something on the scale of 8 cu. ft.

According to what I have found, the passenger volume of the fleetwood is about 4 more cubic feet than the town car, and the difference is exclusively in hip room (by about an inch and a half thanks to the tub in the body). The town car has slightly better head and legroom, and comparable shoulder room. The trunk on the town car is 4 cubic feet bigger, too, 24 cubic feet to 20. It's a firm draw.

Third, I meant drivetrain parts, which are interchangeable with the droves of GM trucks, fullsizes and performance cars.

The LT1 engine is exclusive to the 94-96 B bodies and the C4 Corvette. It's production figures are dwarved by that of the 2V 4.6 engine, almost embarassingly so. The 4.6 2V has been in 12 different cars across three model generations from 1991 to now, with tens of millions produced.

Fourth, you don't have to be buying a tow car truck to need to tow once in a while.

Who the hell tows "once in a while?" You either have a boat/camper that you need to tow several times per year, or you don't. If you can afford a boat over 15 feet or a camper that has more than one mattress, you can afford a truck for towing, leisure, and bad weather. It's better not to tear up the mechanics of your daily driver anyway - my grandfather had a 72 Caprice with a 350 and he claimed that every summer he used it to tow a pop up camper it was like adding 10,000 miles to the car instead of the actual 300.

[Petrolheadia]

First, the Brougham has the simplier LT1, not the more finicky and unreliable Modular V8.

The 4.6 is one of the most reliable and long lasting engines in all of automotive history. It never was, never has been, and never will be "finicky" or "unreliable" as it carries Panther bodies to 400,000 miles or more. Meanwhile, though the LT1 is mechanically mediocre as far as reliability, the transmission and electrics always attached to it have been known to be abjectly terrible with common and costly failures.

Second, the interior of the Fleetwood is noticeably bigger. Something on the scale of 8 cu. ft.

According to what I have found, the passenger volume of the fleetwood is about 4 more cubic feet than the town car, and the difference is exclusively in hip room (by about an inch and a half thanks to the tub in the body). The town car has slightly better head and legroom, and comparable shoulder room. The trunk on the town car is 4 cubic feet bigger, too, 24 cubic feet to 20. It's a firm draw.

Third, I meant drivetrain parts, which are interchangeable with the droves of GM trucks, fullsizes and performance cars.

The LT1 engine is exclusive to the 94-96 B bodies and the C4 Corvette. It's production figures are dwarved by that of the 2V 4.6 engine, almost embarassingly so. The 4.6 2V has been in 12 different cars across three model generations from 1991 to now, with tens of millions produced.

Fourth, you don't have to be buying a tow car truck to need to tow once in a while.

Who the hell tows "once in a while?" You either have a boat/camper that you need to tow several times per year, or you don't. If you can afford a boat over 15 feet or a camper that has more than one mattress, you can afford a truck for towing, leisure, and bad weather. It's better not to tear up the mechanics of your daily driver anyway - my grandfather had a 72 Caprice with a 350 and he claimed that every summer he used it to tow a pop up camper it was like adding 10,000 miles to the car instead of the actual 300.

Any proof for the unreliability?

[Elwher]

What are the most and least long-lasting carmakers where you live?

What do you think? How does it look where you live?

By long-lasting, do you mean the cars last longest or the automaker has lasted the longest time?

[Petrolheadia]

What are the most and least long-lasting carmakers where you live?

What do you think? How does it look where you live?

By long-lasting, do you mean the cars last longest or the automaker has lasted the longest time?

Well, if you read the post, you could see I mean the longest-lasting cars.

And BTW, how did it look in the 80s and 50s, and now?

[Patridam]

Any proof for the unreliability?

Is that all you have to say? You make a blatantly false claim that the 4.6 Modular V8, one of if not the most reliable and longlasting engines ever made by man, is finicky and unreliable, with absolutely no proof... and all you can say is you need proof of one of my 17 different points as you ignore the rest? Fine.

Top 30 Common 4L60E Transmission Problems and Repair

Below is a list of common transmission problems with the GM 4L60E Transmission and possible solutions to repair. Although you may have some of these symptoms / problems with your 4L60E Transmission, the repair solution may differ. This list is merely a guide to the possible solutions. For a complete diagnosis on your GM 4L60E Transmission problem, contact us for a Free Diagnostic.

1. Slow, slipping or no reverse: “lo-reverse” clutches are worn out, fluid leak in the reverse apply circuit, or broken sunshell. It is possible to remedy a fluid problem by removing the checkball from its cage in the case in the rear of the transmission may help (must remove valve body), or adding a high-viscosity additive or other seal restorer product. May also have worn boost valve (can replace in the pan).

2. 1-2 shift does not happen at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) until you let off the gas: Best case: try replacing the TPS. Middle case: leak in the 2nd gear apply circuit (servo assembly or 1-2 accumulator). Double check by using the pressure gauge and watch for a big drop when the PCM commands 2nd gear. Worst case: poor line pressure rise (see below).

3. 1-2 Shift shudder at WOT (Wide Open Throttle); delayed or abnormal 1-2 shift; There's a problem ONLY on the 1-2 shift: 1-2 accumulator piston cracked or stuck cocked in the bore. Check the yellow spring inside the accum housing for breakage. Also, if the accumulator housing walls are scored, the housing must be replaced.

4. 1-2 shift is delayed and harsh, may not shift into OD: TPS needs to be checked for smooth and linear electrical response over the entire range of motion. If not, this must be replaced.

5. Trans does not upshift out of first, speedometer reads zero at all times: Could be VSS failure. Rear of transmission needs to be fixed. Transmission needs to come out in order to access VSS.

6. No 3rd or 4th gear: “3-4” clutches are worn out: Needs to be removed and rebuilt. The car is safe to drive (in 2) until you can get it fixed.

7. Sudden grinding noise with no prior warning primarily in 2nd gear, behavior in reverse may be abnormal: sunshell is fractured. Must be removed and rebuilt. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

8. 1st and 3rd only, no 2,4 or R: Sunshell is fractured or splines are sheared off. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

9. No 2nd or 4th gear. 2-4 band is slipping: Servo seals may be damaged. Otherwise, 2-4 band is worn out. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt.

10. Trans shifts into gear harshly, car feels sluggish off the line, No 1st, 4th or TCC lockup available, Manual 2nd, 3rd and Reverse are only available gears, CEL is on: transmission is either in limp-home mode or has lost electrical power. If there are lots of error codes in the PCM, check the underhood fuse that powers the transmission, and if it pops again, look for a short in that circuit like an O2 sensor harness touching exhaust. Otherwise, check PCM codes for a particular fault in the transmission causing the PCM to put it in limp-home mode.

11. No 1st or 4th available; trans shifts 2nd to 3rd by itself in D or OD and locks the converter: ShiftA solenoid failed Or a wiring problem from PCM to trans or PCM. Needs diagnostic testing.

12. Car goes into gear but feels very sluggish like the brakes are dragging, but it will roll easily (starts out in 4th gear), you manually shift to 2 to get it moving, once it's moving you put it back in OD and the car shifts 3rd to 4th on its own and locks the converter at the appropriate time: ShiftB solenoid failed: A wiring problem from PCM to transmission or PCM.

13. No TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) lockup: Brake pedal switches improperly adjusted (always on), TCC solenoid failed, TCC clutch worn out (must remove transmission and replace TC).

14. TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) always locked: TCC apply solenoid circuit shorted to ground, TCC solenoid blockage, or TC broken (must remove trans and replace TC).

15. Horrible noise in 4th and feels like the brakes are on: overrun clutches are applying due to a cracked or leaking forward piston. Overrun clutches will be worn out after 30 seconds of this behavior. Car can be safely driven in D. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt.

16. Soft shifting, gradual performance degradation: Poor line pressure rise due to leaking boost valve, clogged EPC filter screen, failing EPC solenoid, or worst case: leaky seals throughout. Seal restorer may fix last problem, but probably remove and rebuild needed.

17. No forward movement in OD or D, but L2, L1 and R work: Forward sprag is broken. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

18. Extremely harsh shifts from P or N, normal shifts at WOT: EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) solenoid failed. Fix as soon as possible or hard parts will eventually break.

19. Loud bang, grinding sound, loss of all gears, and a binding driveshaft: Snapped output shaft. Try to wiggle driveshaft - if more than 0.020" play, that's the sign. Must be removed and transmission rebuilt.

20. Trans seems noisy when moving in 1st and Reverse, noise goes away instantly if you shift to N or the transmission goes into 3rd gear: Reaction planetary is worn out due to high miles or insufficient lubrication. Not a critical failure, but not a good sign either. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt, sooner rather than later.

21. No movement in any gear: pump failure, or total loss of fluid. Remove transmission and rebuild, or refill pan and find the leak. If out of fluid, avoid running the engine until the transmission is refilled to avoid pump damage. To check for pump failure, check fluid level with the engine off, then start the engine and recheck fluid level. If level does not go down when engine is running, the pump is broken.

22. Transmission does not shift automatically, only manually. New PCM, check wiring, check other sensors such as VSS and TPS.

23. 3rd gear starts, can manually shift through all gears. When car has been turned off for a bit, then back on it will run normally.: VSS dropoff w/ Hi-stall converter. The rpms are too high, but VSS is showing no movement. Happens after a tire burning take-off. Doesn't store a code, will not throw a CEL (I've heard that it will store a code if it happens 3 or more times). Cure: Reprogram PCM for VSS dropoff.

24. Fluid leak out of the front of trans where the converter connects; partial or full loss of movement: Front pump bushing walked out. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. May have to replace converter also if hub is scored. Note that a leaking front seal usually means the bushing is walking out.

25. Torque converter shudder in 4th while lockup is engaged; problem goes away when the brake pedal is pressed slightly to unlock converter: Need to verify line pressure, and provided no valves in the TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) hydraulic circuit are worn, replace the torque converter.

26. Shift suddenly become very hard. When going from park to either reverse or drive it slams into gear. 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are also harsh. All gears seems to work. Problem may be intermittent: Check TPS for smooth electrical response. If the response is jumpy or erratic at all, replace TPS (Throttle position sensor).

27. All fluid pumped out through the vent tube: Plugged cooler line. Flush the transmission cooler and cooler lines. Also could be overfilled transmission.

28. Car acts like it's in OD in neutral, car is locked stationary in R, engine feels loaded in P, all four forward positions work fine: Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. Internal crossleak feeding the forward clutches all the time. Most likely a cracked input housing, or cracked forward piston means forward clutches are fused together. Car can safely be driven gently in forward gears until the repair.

29. Needle bearings in the pan, first gear and/or reverse may be noisy: Either a Torrington bearing or a planetary bearing is on its way out. Transmission will eventually die a loud, catastrophic death. Cheaper to rebuild now (saves further damage to hard parts), but requires removal and rebuild. It is drivable until it breaks.

30. 1-2 or 2-3 shift is slow/soft above part throttle: Transmission is on its way out. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt.

Common "weak spots" in 4L60E Transmission problems:
Below is a list of the weak points in a 4L60E transmission. These need an upgrade when putting more than ~300 horsepower through a 4L60E:
•Input drum
•Overrun clutch hub
•Output shaft
•Input sprag (for extended high speed/load use in 4th)
•Sun gear shell

And here it is, the short list of common problems with the 4L60E Transmission and repair:

1) Slow, slipping or no reverse
2) Shifting is delayed
3) Loud bang or grinding noises
4) Loss of all gears

[Petrolheadia]

Any proof for the unreliability?

Is that all you have to say? You make a blatantly false claim that the 4.6 Modular V8, one of if not the most reliable and longlasting engines ever made by man, is finicky and unreliable, with absolutely no proof... and all you can say is you need proof of one of my 17 different points as you ignore the rest? Fine.

Top 30 Common 4L60E Transmission Problems and Repair

Below is a list of common transmission problems with the GM 4L60E Transmission and possible solutions to repair. Although you may have some of these symptoms / problems with your 4L60E Transmission, the repair solution may differ. This list is merely a guide to the possible solutions. For a complete diagnosis on your GM 4L60E Transmission problem, contact us for a Free Diagnostic.

1. Slow, slipping or no reverse: “lo-reverse” clutches are worn out, fluid leak in the reverse apply circuit, or broken sunshell. It is possible to remedy a fluid problem by removing the checkball from its cage in the case in the rear of the transmission may help (must remove valve body), or adding a high-viscosity additive or other seal restorer product. May also have worn boost valve (can replace in the pan).

2. 1-2 shift does not happen at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) until you let off the gas: Best case: try replacing the TPS. Middle case: leak in the 2nd gear apply circuit (servo assembly or 1-2 accumulator). Double check by using the pressure gauge and watch for a big drop when the PCM commands 2nd gear. Worst case: poor line pressure rise (see below).

3. 1-2 Shift shudder at WOT (Wide Open Throttle); delayed or abnormal 1-2 shift; There's a problem ONLY on the 1-2 shift: 1-2 accumulator piston cracked or stuck cocked in the bore. Check the yellow spring inside the accum housing for breakage. Also, if the accumulator housing walls are scored, the housing must be replaced.

4. 1-2 shift is delayed and harsh, may not shift into OD: TPS needs to be checked for smooth and linear electrical response over the entire range of motion. If not, this must be replaced.

5. Trans does not upshift out of first, speedometer reads zero at all times: Could be VSS failure. Rear of transmission needs to be fixed. Transmission needs to come out in order to access VSS.

6. No 3rd or 4th gear: “3-4” clutches are worn out: Needs to be removed and rebuilt. The car is safe to drive (in 2) until you can get it fixed.

7. Sudden grinding noise with no prior warning primarily in 2nd gear, behavior in reverse may be abnormal: sunshell is fractured. Must be removed and rebuilt. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

8. 1st and 3rd only, no 2,4 or R: Sunshell is fractured or splines are sheared off. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

9. No 2nd or 4th gear. 2-4 band is slipping: Servo seals may be damaged. Otherwise, 2-4 band is worn out. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt.

10. Trans shifts into gear harshly, car feels sluggish off the line, No 1st, 4th or TCC lockup available, Manual 2nd, 3rd and Reverse are only available gears, CEL is on: transmission is either in limp-home mode or has lost electrical power. If there are lots of error codes in the PCM, check the underhood fuse that powers the transmission, and if it pops again, look for a short in that circuit like an O2 sensor harness touching exhaust. Otherwise, check PCM codes for a particular fault in the transmission causing the PCM to put it in limp-home mode.

11. No 1st or 4th available; trans shifts 2nd to 3rd by itself in D or OD and locks the converter: ShiftA solenoid failed Or a wiring problem from PCM to trans or PCM. Needs diagnostic testing.

12. Car goes into gear but feels very sluggish like the brakes are dragging, but it will roll easily (starts out in 4th gear), you manually shift to 2 to get it moving, once it's moving you put it back in OD and the car shifts 3rd to 4th on its own and locks the converter at the appropriate time: ShiftB solenoid failed: A wiring problem from PCM to transmission or PCM.

13. No TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) lockup: Brake pedal switches improperly adjusted (always on), TCC solenoid failed, TCC clutch worn out (must remove transmission and replace TC).

14. TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) always locked: TCC apply solenoid circuit shorted to ground, TCC solenoid blockage, or TC broken (must remove trans and replace TC).

15. Horrible noise in 4th and feels like the brakes are on: overrun clutches are applying due to a cracked or leaking forward piston. Overrun clutches will be worn out after 30 seconds of this behavior. Car can be safely driven in D. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt.

16. Soft shifting, gradual performance degradation: Poor line pressure rise due to leaking boost valve, clogged EPC filter screen, failing EPC solenoid, or worst case: leaky seals throughout. Seal restorer may fix last problem, but probably remove and rebuild needed.

17. No forward movement in OD or D, but L2, L1 and R work: Forward sprag is broken. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

18. Extremely harsh shifts from P or N, normal shifts at WOT: EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) solenoid failed. Fix as soon as possible or hard parts will eventually break.

19. Loud bang, grinding sound, loss of all gears, and a binding driveshaft: Snapped output shaft. Try to wiggle driveshaft - if more than 0.020" play, that's the sign. Must be removed and transmission rebuilt.

20. Trans seems noisy when moving in 1st and Reverse, noise goes away instantly if you shift to N or the transmission goes into 3rd gear: Reaction planetary is worn out due to high miles or insufficient lubrication. Not a critical failure, but not a good sign either. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt, sooner rather than later.

21. No movement in any gear: pump failure, or total loss of fluid. Remove transmission and rebuild, or refill pan and find the leak. If out of fluid, avoid running the engine until the transmission is refilled to avoid pump damage. To check for pump failure, check fluid level with the engine off, then start the engine and recheck fluid level. If level does not go down when engine is running, the pump is broken.

22. Transmission does not shift automatically, only manually. New PCM, check wiring, check other sensors such as VSS and TPS.

23. 3rd gear starts, can manually shift through all gears. When car has been turned off for a bit, then back on it will run normally.: VSS dropoff w/ Hi-stall converter. The rpms are too high, but VSS is showing no movement. Happens after a tire burning take-off. Doesn't store a code, will not throw a CEL (I've heard that it will store a code if it happens 3 or more times). Cure: Reprogram PCM for VSS dropoff.

24. Fluid leak out of the front of trans where the converter connects; partial or full loss of movement: Front pump bushing walked out. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. May have to replace converter also if hub is scored. Note that a leaking front seal usually means the bushing is walking out.

25. Torque converter shudder in 4th while lockup is engaged; problem goes away when the brake pedal is pressed slightly to unlock converter: Need to verify line pressure, and provided no valves in the TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) hydraulic circuit are worn, replace the torque converter.

26. Shift suddenly become very hard. When going from park to either reverse or drive it slams into gear. 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are also harsh. All gears seems to work. Problem may be intermittent: Check TPS for smooth electrical response. If the response is jumpy or erratic at all, replace TPS (Throttle position sensor).

27. All fluid pumped out through the vent tube: Plugged cooler line. Flush the transmission cooler and cooler lines. Also could be overfilled transmission.

28. Car acts like it's in OD in neutral, car is locked stationary in R, engine feels loaded in P, all four forward positions work fine: Transmission must be removed and rebuilt. Internal crossleak feeding the forward clutches all the time. Most likely a cracked input housing, or cracked forward piston means forward clutches are fused together. Car can safely be driven gently in forward gears until the repair.

29. Needle bearings in the pan, first gear and/or reverse may be noisy: Either a Torrington bearing or a planetary bearing is on its way out. Transmission will eventually die a loud, catastrophic death. Cheaper to rebuild now (saves further damage to hard parts), but requires removal and rebuild. It is drivable until it breaks.

30. 1-2 or 2-3 shift is slow/soft above part throttle: Transmission is on its way out. Transmission must be removed and rebuilt.

Common "weak spots" in 4L60E Transmission problems:
Below is a list of the weak points in a 4L60E transmission. These need an upgrade when putting more than ~300 horsepower through a 4L60E:
•Input drum
•Overrun clutch hub
•Output shaft
•Input sprag (for extended high speed/load use in 4th)
•Sun gear shell

And here it is, the short list of common problems with the 4L60E Transmission and repair:

1) Slow, slipping or no reverse
2) Shifting is delayed
3) Loud bang or grinding noises
4) Loss of all gears

OK, now you have convinced me the Town Car is a better cheap luxury car.

But the Fleetwood is a good cheap ultraluxury car. It's not as cheap as the Lincoln, but you have a bigger interior and (AFAIK) better ride. Kinda like a cheap Rolls-Royce.

[Patridam]

OK, now you have convinced me the Town Car is a better cheap luxury car.

But the Fleetwood is a good cheap ultraluxury car. It's not as cheap as the Lincoln, but you have a bigger interior and (AFAIK) better ride. Kinda like a cheap Rolls-Royce.

No. The Fleetwood is no more luxurious than the Town Car. It has an interior only marginally bigger, but the interior materials quality is vastly inferior to the Town Car. It also has a worse ride, because it uses all wheel coil springs basically unchanged from 1977 as opposed to the sophisticated load adjusting air suspension of the Town car. Neither car is directly comparable to a Rolls Royce Silver Spirit/Spur.

If you are speaking of the price of the cars today, the Fleetwood is more expensive, despite being a worse car. In terms of original cost, they were comparable, and nothing like a Rolls Royce. Back in 1994, the base model Fleetwood started at $33,990 while the slightly better equipped base trim Town Car Executive started at $34,750. The more upscale Fleetwood Brougham model started at $36,490 while the comparable middle trim Town Car Signature Series started at $36,050. Cadillac had nothing directly comparable to the top trim Town Car Cartier Edition, which was $38,100 (all options standard except car phone), except maybe a Fleetwood Brougham with all options.

[Novus America]

OK, now you have convinced me the Town Car is a better cheap luxury car.

But the Fleetwood is a good cheap ultraluxury car. It's not as cheap as the Lincoln, but you have a bigger interior and (AFAIK) better ride. Kinda like a cheap Rolls-Royce.

No. The Fleetwood is no more luxurious than the Town Car. It has an interior only marginally bigger, but the interior materials quality is vastly inferior to the Town Car. It also has a worse ride, because it uses all wheel coil springs basically unchanged from 1977 as opposed to the sophisticated load adjusting air suspension of the Town car. Neither car is directly comparable to a Rolls Royce Silver Spirit/Spur.

If you are speaking of the price of the cars today, the Fleetwood is more expensive, despite being a worse car. In terms of original cost, they were comparable, and nothing like a Rolls Royce. Back in 1994, the base model Fleetwood started at $33,990 while the slightly better equipped base trim Town Car Executive started at $34,750. The more upscale Fleetwood Brougham model started at $36,490 while the comparable middle trim Town Car Signature Series started at $36,050. Cadillac had nothing directly comparable to the top trim Town Car Cartier Edition, which was $38,100 (all options standard except car phone), except maybe a Fleetwood Brougham with all options.

Well some is subjective. But for 90s cars both were solid. But they were also 90s cars. So not a high bar there.

[Petrolheadia]

OK, now you have convinced me the Town Car is a better cheap luxury car.

But the Fleetwood is a good cheap ultraluxury car. It's not as cheap as the Lincoln, but you have a bigger interior and (AFAIK) better ride. Kinda like a cheap Rolls-Royce.

No. The Fleetwood is no more luxurious than the Town Car. It has an interior only marginally bigger, but the interior materials quality is vastly inferior to the Town Car. It also has a worse ride, because it uses all wheel coil springs basically unchanged from 1977 as opposed to the sophisticated load adjusting air suspension of the town car.

If you are speaking of the price of the cars today, the Fleetwood is more expensive, despite being a worse car. In terms of original cost, they were comparable, and nothing like a Rolls Royce. Back in 1994, the base model Fleetwood started at $33,990 while the slightly better equipped base trim Town Car Executive started at $34,750. The more upscale Fleetwood Brougham model started at $36,490 while the comparable middle trim Town Car Signature Series started at $36,050. Cadillac had nothing directly comparable to the top trim Town Car Cartier Edition, which was $38,100 (all options standard except car phone), except maybe a Fleetwood Brougham with all options.

Well, that changes my concept of where the Caddy can reside.

Now, the reasons to buy it are either that you want that push over the edge in interior space or need to tow heavy stuff, but don't feel comfortable with a truck.

[Auzkhia]

Four-door Ford Mustang, for when you need better access to its rear seats.

Who would buy it? People who would get the Mercedes Benz CLS or Porsche Panamera but have less than $50k to spend, or maybe those considering the Dodge Charger.

I like the idea of it, could be a cheap CLS.

[Arkinesia]

Four-door Ford Mustang, for when you need better access to its rear seats.

Who would buy it? People who would get the Mercedes Benz CLS or Porsche Panamera but have less than $50k to spend, or maybe those considering the Dodge Charger.

I like the idea of it, could be a cheap CLS.

Would make more sense to put it in Lincoln's lineup.

I think Lincoln should do a super jazzy Mustang, though, maybe as a reincarnation in the form of a Lincoln Mark IX?

EDIT: I have a crazy conspiracy theory about the 2018 Mustang (S551) that I want to share with you all, courtesy of R&T.

It all started about a year ago when people in the Dearborn area reported hearing an S550, clearly a mule, making unholy noises. Ford engineers wouldn't say anything about the car, and the noise didn't comport with the sound of the GT, the Mustang GT350(R), or any other existent vehicle. Particularly sharp listeners said the motor sounded turbocharged, which has led to speculation that this test mule had a twin-turbo powerplant—that does seem to be the direction many turbocharged Fords are going.

Then, there's this teaser image Ford's marketing department put out for the S551.



Put the prominent numbers together and what does it spell? 755.

Dodge did something like this to tease the Hellcat—the first teaser images of the dashboard revealed that Sirius XM was set to '70s on 7, and it was later confirmed that this was an intentional hint about the output of the Hellcat V8.

Could the rumored GT500 revival be a V8TT producing 755hp on the S551 platform?

Road & Track further suggests this teaser image teases the GT V8's output:

[Cannot think of a name]

Four-door Ford Mustang, for when you need better access to its rear seats.

Who would buy it? People who would get the Mercedes Benz CLS or Porsche Panamera but have less than $50k to spend, or maybe those considering the Dodge Charger.

I like the idea of it, could be a cheap CLS.

Speaking of weird things people drew for some reason...