GUN TALK (Favorite guns discussion thread)

[Big Jim P]

I'm reading vast conflicting info on whether its okay to use steel cased ammo in an AR.

Generally so far it seems to be that modern steel cased stuff isn't lacquered, but the old lacquered stuff did cause problems. I've also heard that it depends on the individual piece.

Any of you had good/bad experience with modern steel ammo through a new AR?

I've heard too many bad things about steel cased ammo to ever want to use it. Besides, it can't be reloaded, so what's the point?

[Sovaal]

I'm reading vast conflicting info on whether its okay to use steel cased ammo in an AR.

Generally so far it seems to be that modern steel cased stuff isn't lacquered, but the old lacquered stuff did cause problems. I've also heard that it depends on the individual piece.

Any of you had good/bad experience with modern steel ammo through a new AR?

I've heard too many bad things about steel cased ammo to ever want to use it. Besides, it can't be reloaded, so what's the point?

Maybe renact your comblock fantasizes?

[Sovaal]

I'm reading vast conflicting info on whether its okay to use steel cased ammo in an AR.

Generally so far it seems to be that modern steel cased stuff isn't lacquered, but the old lacquered stuff did cause problems. I've also heard that it depends on the individual piece.

Any of you had good/bad experience with modern steel ammo through a new AR?

Most of the steel ammo I've ever fired hasn't really had problems.

The only steel cased rounds I've ever shot in my Ar didn't want to cycle properly.

However, the daewoo ate them all up without problem.

[Yagon]

I've heard too many bad things about steel cased ammo to ever want to use it. Besides, it can't be reloaded, so what's the point?

I don't reload. I have a friend who does, I give him my brass, but I don't do it. Steel case is quite a bit cheaper, I can practice 50% more with it.

From what I'm hearing though, it really seems a case can be made that its not good for an AR. A good case. Polished, new primer seated.

[Spreewerke]

I'm reading vast conflicting info on whether its okay to use steel cased ammo in an AR.

Generally so far it seems to be that modern steel cased stuff isn't lacquered, but the old lacquered stuff did cause problems. I've also heard that it depends on the individual piece.

Any of you had good/bad experience with modern steel ammo through a new AR?

TulAmmo is pretty inaccurate. Lacquer doesn't cause problems, I think it mostly has to do with steel-cased ammo being weaker and not cycling the action as well. Slightly larger gas port will correct those issues.

I've never really used it all that much, but when i did they usually didn't wan't to cycle properly.

Pretty much reverts all modern AR-15s into M-16 SP1 jam-o-matic death-traps not so much from material-issues (although the relatively tiny rim isn't helping) as from non-optimal powder-loads that would (likely) require re-tuning the entire system.

This problem was also semi-common on the Huldra 5.45x39 uppers, a piston-driven AR that was geared towards upper-end pressure-loads and running with a suppressor-can attached. So old spam-can ammo from an A2 muzzle brake = undergassed to the max. Add lacquer-buildup and corrossion-welding of the piston from improper cleaning... It got such a poor internet-reputation that they discontinued sales before I could get one for myself.

Least that's my understanding of it.

I use TulAmmo as a benchmark for reliability in my ARs. Have yet to have a single AR that wouldn't cycle steel-cased ammunition, myself. Not sure what kind of turds people are using that can't cycle steel-cased ammunition.

[Yagon]

TulAmmo is pretty inaccurate. Lacquer doesn't cause problems, I think it mostly has to do with steel-cased ammo being weaker and not cycling the action as well. Slightly larger gas port will correct those issues.

I use TulAmmo as a benchmark for reliability in my ARs. Have yet to have a single AR that wouldn't cycle steel-cased ammunition, myself. Not sure what kind of turds people are using that can't cycle steel-cased ammunition.

Any truth to what I'm hearing that there were problems caused by lacquer that is no longer used?

[Spreewerke]

TulAmmo is pretty inaccurate. Lacquer doesn't cause problems, I think it mostly has to do with steel-cased ammo being weaker and not cycling the action as well. Slightly larger gas port will correct those issues.

I use TulAmmo as a benchmark for reliability in my ARs. Have yet to have a single AR that wouldn't cycle steel-cased ammunition, myself. Not sure what kind of turds people are using that can't cycle steel-cased ammunition.

Any truth to what I'm hearing that there were problems caused by lacquer that is no longer used?

Not to my knowledge. A lot of issues with ARs firing steel cased is when people don't clean the chambers afterward. Steel does not expand against the chamber walls when firing as uniformly as brass, so carbon/debris gets between the casing and chamber wall. It'll eventually get dirty enough to cause issues. I imagine that is what was happening, not lacquer build-up. Cleaning it out is cleaning it out, though, so regardless of what people thought it was, cleaning it is what would "fix" it. Problem is exaggerated if not cleaned and you switch to brass-cased ammunition. Kind of like when you fire .357 Magnum through a revolver after a whole bunch of .38 Special: carbon deposits between the longer casing and chamber walls will cause extraction issues if you didn't clean the cylinder after firing .38 Special.

[Hurtful Thoughts]

Pretty much reverts all modern AR-15s into M-16 SP1 jam-o-matic death-traps not so much from material-issues (although the relatively tiny rim isn't helping) as from non-optimal powder-loads that would (likely) require re-tuning the entire system.

This problem was also semi-common on the Huldra 5.45x39 uppers, a piston-driven AR that was geared towards upper-end pressure-loads and running with a suppressor-can attached. So old spam-can ammo from an A2 muzzle brake = undergassed to the max. Add lacquer-buildup and corrossion-welding of the piston from improper cleaning... It got such a poor internet-reputation that they discontinued sales before I could get one for myself.

Least that's my understanding of it.

I use TulAmmo as a benchmark for reliability in my ARs. Have yet to have a single AR that wouldn't cycle steel-cased ammunition, myself. Not sure what kind of turds people are using that can't cycle steel-cased ammunition.

A LaRue, of all things, apparently.

Similarily, Huldra used Voodoo tactical arms components.

Pretty much a life-lesson in what happens when QC (of final assembly) slides enough (or the sales target is uneducated enough at how to care for an AR) that the gas-port is bad straight from the factory and in need of re-work to run with your cartridge and barrel-length. Both designs have been known to work flawlessly once tuned to resist fouling.

Considering those uppers used to go for about $550, I was sorta bummed they were discontinued about a year before President Hillary got elected due to negative hype and the drying-up of 5.45mm ammo.
-Nvmd, someone is selling one for a dollar on gunbroker.

[Big Jim P]

I'm reading vast conflicting info on whether its okay to use steel cased ammo in an AR.

Generally so far it seems to be that modern steel cased stuff isn't lacquered, but the old lacquered stuff did cause problems. I've also heard that it depends on the individual piece.

Any of you had good/bad experience with modern steel ammo through a new AR?

TulAmmo is pretty inaccurate. Lacquer doesn't cause problems, I think it mostly has to do with steel-cased ammo being weaker and not cycling the action as well. Slightly larger gas port will correct those issues.

Pretty much reverts all modern AR-15s into M-16 SP1 jam-o-matic death-traps not so much from material-issues (although the relatively tiny rim isn't helping) as from non-optimal powder-loads that would (likely) require re-tuning the entire system.

This problem was also semi-common on the Huldra 5.45x39 uppers, a piston-driven AR that was geared towards upper-end pressure-loads and running with a suppressor-can attached. So old spam-can ammo from an A2 muzzle brake = undergassed to the max. Add lacquer-buildup and corrossion-welding of the piston from improper cleaning... It got such a poor internet-reputation that they discontinued sales before I could get one for myself.

Least that's my understanding of it.

I use TulAmmo as a benchmark for reliability in my ARs. Have yet to have a single AR that wouldn't cycle steel-cased ammunition, myself. Not sure what kind of turds people are using that can't cycle steel-cased ammunition.

I've heard enough bad (and don't see enough benefit) to even try it. Mine is a Bushmaster BTW, so I guess it isn't one of those turds.

[Zeclil]

Opinion on a potential revolver mechanism that automatically ejects?

When I envision this system, the Landstad "revolver" comes to mind.

For those who are unfamiliar, the Landstad 1900 Automatic Revolver is like a Mauser pistol with a two round cylinder. The action of the Landstad is like that of a double action only revolver; the cylinder rotates after chambering a round from a magazine and lines up with the barrel and fires. The cartridge is then extracted from the cylinder as the bolt moves back under recoil and ejects the empty casing. Now, this is in sort of a limbo of classification. The system is fairly... odd... certainly unique, but does it imply a potential system of a pure revolver that ejects each fired cartridge immediately?

I see the potential design as being similar to the Webley Fosbery Automatic Revolver, or the Mateba. A pistol slide like assembly would both cock the hammer and index the cylinder. The tough problem I have ran into is the ejection process. One design that I have contemplated is that the barrel is fixed while the cylinder and rear upper-receiver recoils. Perhaps the cylinder would incorporate an extractor and ejector?

Your input is appreciated.

[Washington Resistance Army]

The Protecta/Striker has a revolver drum that auto ejects.

I think it's cool myself but they aren't overly useful and other systems are probably better.

[Zeclil]

The Protecta/Striker has a revolver drum that auto ejects.

I think it's cool myself but they aren't overly useful and other systems are probably better.

*Vietnam Flashback regarding the Street-Sweeper*

[Puzikas]

Opinion on a potential revolver mechanism that automatically ejects?

When I envision this system, the Landstad "revolver" comes to mind.

For those who are unfamiliar, the Landstad 1900 Automatic Revolver is like a Mauser pistol with a two round cylinder. The action of the Landstad is like that of a double action only revolver; the cylinder rotates after chambering a round from a magazine and lines up with the barrel and fires. The cartridge is then extracted from the cylinder as the bolt moves back under recoil and ejects the empty casing. Now, this is in sort of a limbo of classification. The system is fairly... odd... certainly unique, but does it imply a potential system of a pure revolver that ejects each fired cartridge immediately?

I see the potential design as being similar to the Webley Fosbery Automatic Revolver, or the Mateba. A pistol slide like assembly would both cock the hammer and index the cylinder. The tough problem I have ran into is the ejection process. One design that I have contemplated is that the barrel is fixed while the cylinder and rear upper-receiver recoils. Perhaps the cylinder would incorporate an extractor and ejector?

Your input is appreciated.

These are basically entirely gimmick pistols. The Mateba Unica is certainly very cool but it's practical purposes is hardly that: it's useful basically only for completive shooting, Something that it's only decent at. Self-cocking revolvers are basically only useful for getting the SA pull in a DA action for competition shooting, while the Landstäd was absolutely awful in both performance and reliability, and probably existed to circumvent patent laws.

[Big Jim P]

3450 meter confirmed kill. Now THAT'S shooting! Maybe Canada needs to train the worlds snipers.

[The East Marches II]

I'm reading vast conflicting info on whether its okay to use steel cased ammo in an AR.

Generally so far it seems to be that modern steel cased stuff isn't lacquered, but the old lacquered stuff did cause problems. I've also heard that it depends on the individual piece.

Any of you had good/bad experience with modern steel ammo through a new AR?

TulAmmo is pretty inaccurate. Lacquer doesn't cause problems, I think it mostly has to do with steel-cased ammo being weaker and not cycling the action as well. Slightly larger gas port will correct those issues.

I can confirm TulAmmo has issues with being weaker. Thats the only one I've had trouble with though. My 20 inch didn't like it. Wolf I had no issues with however and works just fine.

[The Derpy Democratic Republic Of Herp]

3450 meter confirmed kill. Now THAT'S shooting! Maybe Canada needs to train the worlds snipers.

I'd say so, we do have a knack for it.

[Fartsniffage]

3450 meter confirmed kill. Now THAT'S shooting! Maybe Canada needs to train the worlds snipers.

I'd say so, we do have a knack for it.

I question this. The longest shot is over a kilometer from the last longest?

Aliens, the only explanation....

[Big Jim P]

I'd say so, we do have a knack for it.

I question this. The longest shot is over a kilometer from the last longest?

Aliens, the only explanation....

Well, they ARE Canadians.

[Tallapoosa]

I'm looking to buy my first rifle within the next couple of months and I need some recommendations. I'm looking for a good, affordable beginner rifle that can work well for both deer hunting and target shooting. Any suggestions are appreciated.

[Kyraina]

I'm looking to buy my first rifle within the next couple of months and I need some recommendations. I'm looking for a good, affordable beginner rifle that can work well for both deer hunting and target shooting. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Any .243 would be great for that

[Germanic Templars]

I'm looking to buy my first rifle within the next couple of months and I need some recommendations. I'm looking for a good, affordable beginner rifle that can work well for both deer hunting and target shooting. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Anything that can fire a .308 Winchester (7.8 x 51), that or a 7.62 x 54R like the Mosin Nagant.

[Sovaal]

I'm looking to buy my first rifle within the next couple of months and I need some recommendations. I'm looking for a good, affordable beginner rifle that can work well for both deer hunting and target shooting. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Go for one of the Savage rifles, chambered in something like .308 or .270. Get an affordable scope, not a cheap one.

[Telconi]

I'm looking to buy my first rifle within the next couple of months and I need some recommendations. I'm looking for a good, affordable beginner rifle that can work well for both deer hunting and target shooting. Any suggestions are appreciated.

.308 is your best bet IMO. Other stuff is more expensive, potentially unlawful to use for deer, and the possible performance benefits aren't needed for a new shooter.

[Germanic Templars]

I'm looking to buy my first rifle within the next couple of months and I need some recommendations. I'm looking for a good, affordable beginner rifle that can work well for both deer hunting and target shooting. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Go for one of the Savage rifles, chambered in something like .308 or .270. Get an affordable scope, not a cheap one.

Dollar range you are looking for, because if it is less than $1000, best bet is bolt action, or a PTR 91, an American version of the H&K G3

[Sovaal]

Go for one of the Savage rifles, chambered in something like .308 or .270. Get an affordable scope, not a cheap one.

Dollar range you are looking for, because if it is less than $1000, best bet is bolt action, or a PTR 91, an American version of the H&K G3

I think you responded to the wrong person. Also, where can you find a PTR? I've never seen one.