Computer General Discussion Thread

[Grand Britannia]

I'm going for a themed build and it's the only one that fits it.

Ah, I see. It should be fine. Usually you won't even pull 600 watts.

Between my monitor and computer I expect it to stay between 500 or 550 at peak usage.

I'm going for a themed build and it's the only one that fits it.

Which 1000W PSU?

Corsair RM 1000i

Only one I can find from a brand I've found reliable while having the color for the theme (white).

[Salandriagado]

Ah, I see. It should be fine. Usually you won't even pull 600 watts.

Between my monitor and computer I expect it to stay between 500 or 550 at peak usage.

Which 1000W PSU?

Corsair RM 1000i

Only one I can find from a brand I've found reliable while having the color for the theme (white).

There's a white RM750x as well.

[Imperializt Russia]

Well, I'm out of ideas.

Only thing left to possibly do to remedy this is to have the mobo flashed with a BIOS update, despite the box being plastered in the Ryzen logo and this mobo having BIOS that does not fucking support Ryzen.

[Salandriagado]

Well, I'm out of ideas.

Only thing left to possibly do to remedy this is to have the mobo flashed with a BIOS update, despite the box being plastered in the Ryzen logo and this mobo having BIOS that does not fucking support Ryzen.

That seems... unlikely. It's starting to look distinctly plausible that *something* is damaged. Any more information?

[Imperializt Russia]

Well, I'm out of ideas.

Only thing left to possibly do to remedy this is to have the mobo flashed with a BIOS update, despite the box being plastered in the Ryzen logo and this mobo having BIOS that does not fucking support Ryzen.

That seems... unlikely. It's starting to look distinctly plausible that *something* is damaged. Any more information?

I looked up a third-party compatibility list which listed Ryzen 5 and Ryzen 7 but not Ryzen 3. I finally found MSI's own compatibility list, which does feature the R3-1200.

However, from the symptoms and the bevy of similar issues posted by other users on help sites, BIOS flash does seem to be the best remedy.
I've jumped the CMOS/BIOS reset switch (screwdriver), twice now, and popped the CMOS battery, which has been suggested as a fix, but to no effect.

I re-burned the iso of Win10 Pro I had, wouldn't load the disc, I downloaded a fresh iso from Microsoft of Win10 Home, wouldn't load that disc either.
The CPU fan spins, but clearly isn't doing any processing to load discs or whatever. From other people with similar issues, this seems to be a BIOS compatibility issue.

The other thing I've not tried - a help FAQ says to not run PSU cables under the mobo, which I of course do. I guess I should order both a motherboard speaker and a power cord extender.

[Salandriagado]

That seems... unlikely. It's starting to look distinctly plausible that *something* is damaged. Any more information?

I looked up a third-party compatibility list which listed Ryzen 5 and Ryzen 7 but not Ryzen 3. I finally found MSI's own compatibility list, which does feature the R3-1200.

However, from the symptoms and the bevy of similar issues posted by other users on help sites, BIOS flash does seem to be the best remedy.
I've jumped the CMOS/BIOS reset switch (screwdriver), twice now, and popped the CMOS battery, which has been suggested as a fix, but to no effect.

I re-burned the iso of Win10 Pro I had, wouldn't load the disc, I downloaded a fresh iso from Microsoft of Win10 Home, wouldn't load that disc either.
The CPU fan spins, but clearly isn't doing any processing to load discs or whatever. From other people with similar issues, this seems to be a BIOS compatibility issue.

The other thing I've not tried - a help FAQ says to not run PSU cables under the mobo, which I of course do. I guess I should order both a motherboard speaker and a power cord extender.

Yeah: again, when I said "behind the motherboard", I meant "behind the motherboard tray".

As for Windows: if there are problems with POSTing, you wont get anywhere with anything else. Also, you can install Windows from a USB stick, which might help if it turns out there's an issue with the optical drive, or the cable or port it's connected with.

[Imperializt Russia]

For some stupid reason, this mobo doesn't support booting from USB from blank.

[Sugrastan]

For some stupid reason, this mobo doesn't support booting from USB from blank.

Which one is it?

[Imperializt Russia]

MSI B350 Gaming Pro. "Due to chipset limitations, USB boot is not supported" or wtte.
If there is an existing OS, it of course can boot from USB.

[Sugrastan]

MSI B350 Gaming Pro. "Due to chipset limitations, USB boot is not supported" or wtte.
If there is an existing OS, it of course can boot from USB.

What exactly are you trying to do? On my B350 board a Windows installation worked perfectly.

[Salandriagado]

MSI B350 Gaming Pro. "Due to chipset limitations, USB boot is not supported" or wtte.
If there is an existing OS, it of course can boot from USB.

*Booting* from USB and *Installing* from USB are two different things.

[Imperializt Russia]

*shrug*

I've had two different version of Win10 ISO in the disc drive and one on a USB all connected to no effect. The fundamental issue of "I don't think this is even reaching POST" seems to be overriding here.

[Sugrastan]

*shrug*

I've had two different version of Win10 ISO in the disc drive and one on a USB all connected to no effect. The fundamental issue of "I don't think this is even reaching POST" seems to be overriding here.

I advise posting everything you've done after assembling the PC on r/pcmasterrace, the guys there are really friendly and helpful.

[Soldati Senza Confini]

*shrug*

I've had two different version of Win10 ISO in the disc drive and one on a USB all connected to no effect. The fundamental issue of "I don't think this is even reaching POST" seems to be overriding here.

Is the CD drive a USB device, or a device that plugs directly into the motherboard?

[Soldati Senza Confini]

*shrug*

I've had two different version of Win10 ISO in the disc drive and one on a USB all connected to no effect. The fundamental issue of "I don't think this is even reaching POST" seems to be overriding here.

If POST was your problem the fan wouldn't turn on. Does the fan turn on when you turn on the computer?

For those interested, this is why I say the fan should turn on on a motherboard upon successful POST: if POST isn't being reached, the computer would enter into "panic" and it wouldn't let it start anything to protect itself. Running the fan requires successful POST.

[Imperializt Russia]

*shrug*

I've had two different version of Win10 ISO in the disc drive and one on a USB all connected to no effect. The fundamental issue of "I don't think this is even reaching POST" seems to be overriding here.

I advise posting everything you've done after assembling the PC on r/pcmasterrace, the guys there are really friendly and helpful.

I've actually got a rly long comment thread going with a helpful fellow on r/buildapc, but replies are like waiting for treacle down a drainpipe (except for this one guy).
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/7xmpzq/can_get_machine_to_boot_appears_to_pass_post_no/duc7bbp/

*shrug*

I've had two different version of Win10 ISO in the disc drive and one on a USB all connected to no effect. The fundamental issue of "I don't think this is even reaching POST" seems to be overriding here.

Is the CD drive a USB device, or a device that plugs directly into the motherboard?

SATA device, connected directly to the motherboard.

*shrug*

I've had two different version of Win10 ISO in the disc drive and one on a USB all connected to no effect. The fundamental issue of "I don't think this is even reaching POST" seems to be overriding here.

If POST was your problem the fan wouldn't turn on. Does the fan turn on when you turn on the computer?

For those interested, this is why I say the fan should turn on on a motherboard upon successful POST: if POST isn't being reached, the computer would enter into "panic" and it wouldn't let it start anything to protect itself. Running the fan requires successful POST.

Yes, all fans run.

[Sugrastan]

I advise posting everything you've done after assembling the PC on r/pcmasterrace, the guys there are really friendly and helpful.

I've actually got a rly long comment thread going with a helpful fellow on r/buildapc, but replies are like waiting for treacle down a drainpipe (except for this one guy).
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/7xmpzq/can_get_machine_to_boot_appears_to_pass_post_no/duc7bbp/

Is the CD drive a USB device, or a device that plugs directly into the motherboard?

SATA device, connected directly to the motherboard.

If POST was your problem the fan wouldn't turn on. Does the fan turn on when you turn on the computer?

For those interested, this is why I say the fan should turn on on a motherboard upon successful POST: if POST isn't being reached, the computer would enter into "panic" and it wouldn't let it start anything to protect itself. Running the fan requires successful POST.

Yes, all fans run.

Quick question. Have you plugged the display cable into your GPU?

[Imperializt Russia]

Yes. Then a DisplayPort cable arrived and the thing was working all along, just not outputting HDMI signal
hooray

[Imperializt Russia]

Okay, so.
My GPU fan will not automatically engage, and I must manually set its speed through an external app when playing a game - 40% speed will keep the temperature under 60 degrees on everything I've tried playing so far.

My mouse has two additional keys on it (M1, M2, MMB, DPI+/-, M4, M5), and I can record macro.

What I want to do is set these two buttons so that they will go into SpeedFan and raise or lower the GPU fan speed. I tried doing this just now, but I know jack shit.
Ideas? Is this even possible?

[Minoa]

The following post didn't quite pass quality control for this thread, but I thought I’d leave it here to express how difficult it is to create worlds in contrast to creating wikis:

If the backbone that powers OpenStreetMap was as easy to set up as MediaWiki (instead of building each part from the GitHub source code), I would have already been creating my own worlds right now.

OpenStreetMap is powered by an array of software, most of it requires manual configuration and compiling from source from GitHub. I know OpenGeoFiction, but my roleplay world just does not fit in – I keep telling them that OpenGeoFiction is not an option (largely due to my dependency on coordinates) and they keep suggesting that I give it a try! /rant

[Sugrastan]

Okay, so.
My GPU fan will not automatically engage, and I must manually set its speed through an external app when playing a game - 40% speed will keep the temperature under 60 degrees on everything I've tried playing so far.

My mouse has two additional keys on it (M1, M2, MMB, DPI+/-, M4, M5), and I can record macro.

What I want to do is set these two buttons so that they will go into SpeedFan and raise or lower the GPU fan speed. I tried doing this just now, but I know jack shit.
Ideas? Is this even possible?

Are you sure it doesn't automatically engage while under load? I mean, if 40% fan speed keeps it below 60 degrees, I don't think it necessarily needs the fans right then.

[Imperializt Russia]

Okay, so.
My GPU fan will not automatically engage, and I must manually set its speed through an external app when playing a game - 40% speed will keep the temperature under 60 degrees on everything I've tried playing so far.

My mouse has two additional keys on it (M1, M2, MMB, DPI+/-, M4, M5), and I can record macro.

What I want to do is set these two buttons so that they will go into SpeedFan and raise or lower the GPU fan speed. I tried doing this just now, but I know jack shit.
Ideas? Is this even possible?

Are you sure it doesn't automatically engage while under load? I mean, if 40% fan speed keeps it below 60 degrees, I don't think it necessarily needs the fans right then.

It absolutely does not auto-engage. If I forget to activate the fan, and I start playing World of Warships, it will go as high as 82-85 degrees, when I usually realise "shit, the fans" and turn them on. My laptop also would run games at 80-82 degrees "stable", 84-87 was "dangerously close to auto-shutoff".

Example, I've had my PC on for about 90 minutes now, case fans at minimum, GPU fan off (it resets to 0 when the PC enters sleep mode, which it does automatically), just watching Youtube and browsing and the GPU has reached 34 degrees, having started cold this morning at 16 degrees.
I've actually started running my fans at 55% speed since starting playing FO4, and higher since playing Doom. While FO4 and WOWS would run at a constant 50-55 peaking at 60, Doom would run at a constant 60, peaking at 65. Even putting the fan speed up to 100% Doom will still run at 55 degrees.

I also have no idea which if any of the case fans are actually exhausts rather than intakes, and whether the GPU/CPU fans (stock) are meant to exhaust heat away from the cards, or draw air to blast over the cards.

[Imperializt Russia]

Additional - having had this PC running on un-activated Windows for nearly 3 weeks, it's time to make a decision.

Do I do either of the following:
A) use the laptop's product key to activate Windows, which will invalidate the key for the laptop, and then wipe the laptop down to some sort of Linux distro?
B) suck it up and buy another Win10 product key to keep both machines running with minimum fuss.

I can afford to buy Win10, I'd just really rather not part with that much (I had that much worth of shifts cut this week). I have no Linux distro experience at all, the laptop would be only for going about the house or outside use, this PC will become a full workstation hopefully.
So far as I can workout the only downside to Linux-only build on the laptop would mean there'd be a much slimmer choice of Steam games it could play, many titles not having Linux-friendly builds. This is not an issue to me, so if there are other problems then I'd need to know about that.

[Minoa]

Additional - having had this PC running on un-activated Windows for nearly 3 weeks, it's time to make a decision.

Do I do either of the following:
A) use the laptop's product key to activate Windows, which will invalidate the key for the laptop, and then wipe the laptop down to some sort of Linux distro?
B) suck it up and buy another Win10 product key to keep both machines running with minimum fuss.

I can afford to buy Win10, I'd just really rather not part with that much (I had that much worth of shifts cut this week). I have no Linux distro experience at all, the laptop would be only for going about the house or outside use, this PC will become a full workstation hopefully.
So far as I can workout the only downside to Linux-only build on the laptop would mean there'd be a much slimmer choice of Steam games it could play, many titles not having Linux-friendly builds. This is not an issue to me, so if there are other problems then I'd need to know about that.

I personally stay away from Windows 10 because of privacy issues, unwanted apps and mandatory updates that don't always work.

[Sugrastan]

Additional - having had this PC running on un-activated Windows for nearly 3 weeks, it's time to make a decision.

Do I do either of the following:
A) use the laptop's product key to activate Windows, which will invalidate the key for the laptop, and then wipe the laptop down to some sort of Linux distro?
B) suck it up and buy another Win10 product key to keep both machines running with minimum fuss.

I can afford to buy Win10, I'd just really rather not part with that much (I had that much worth of shifts cut this week). I have no Linux distro experience at all, the laptop would be only for going about the house or outside use, this PC will become a full workstation hopefully.
So far as I can workout the only downside to Linux-only build on the laptop would mean there'd be a much slimmer choice of Steam games it could play, many titles not having Linux-friendly builds. This is not an issue to me, so if there are other problems then I'd need to know about that.

I personally stay away from Windows 10 because of privacy issues, unwanted apps and mandatory updates that don't always work.

If you're just going for a gaming box, you really should go Windows 10, though. High compatibility, lots of support and no hassle (usually). You can get around the unwanted apps by going with Win 10 Pro.